Shinrin-yoku 森林浴

In a country defined by its dynamic culture and bustling mega-cities, our pinnacle experience was found in a sleepy town by the coast, relaxing in an onsen overlooking the ocean.

Perhaps it is the contrast of extremes that provided the richness of this time. Stepping off the high-speed train — an obvious high-tech contrast — into this walking and bicycling town in a valley defined by its tributary leading into the expansive Pacific. Kawazu, a name lacking poetic adornment, is translated as river port from its kanji 河 (kawa/ka), meaning “river,” and 津 (zu), meaning “harbor” or “ferry crossing.” The town is home to hot springs endemic to this region, one of which has regular pressure releases akin to a geyser — which, unfortunately, we missed.

As you follow the Kawazu river from the coast, you experience photogenic red bridges that span it, flanked for miles on each side by the sakura, or cherry-blossom tree. The specific variety here blooms earliest in Japan, in February. We missed this, so were greeted only by stark skeletal stand-ins for what would clearly be a beautiful view. Catching a bus in town, we headed north along the eponymous river, through increasingly tortuous mountain roads, in search of the Seven Waterfalls (Kawazu Nanadaru). The hiking trail is well established, feels ancient, and isn’t to be missed. Each daru is uniquely sculpted and beautiful, and you are provided with plenty of vantage points for each.

We can’t recommend enough the experience at Isoaruki no Yuyado Ushiogumo, a traditional ryokan along the Pacific coast. Two massive multi-course meals are provided per day, morning and evening. Outside, your patio is an outdoor shower next to a private wooden onsen tub, with a small shelter above to block cool breezes or the sun. You experience the authentic bathing ritual 体を洗う (karada o arau), using a stool and a handheld shower. I found this process of bathing to be one of the biggest things I wish I could take home, along with the onsen. It was supremely relaxing. At night you fall asleep to the gentle thrum of the Pacific’s waves.

f/J